头巾和发式.

Part 1 常见女士头巾

似乎成年女性都佩戴过头巾,但可惜的是由于身份的原因,几乎没有可用的插图和插画。普通女性佩戴头巾的图象仅在木刻版画上有存。

图1,图2,显示的是伊丽莎白时期 或 詹姆士时期/Jacobean 的头巾。

图4为尖顶式,头巾虽然在本世纪初很常见,但17世纪中叶就已经渐渐被淡忘了,或许那个时候只有老年女性才佩戴。


16世纪、17世纪的发辫

头发的形状似乎决定了头巾的形状和头巾的固定方式,目前,我们尚未找到上流以下裸露头发的插图。以下是荷兰人的。

图片A是 未知艺术家,1586年绘制的;

图片B是 Joachim Beuckelaer,1563年绘制的。


发辫的说明

适合长发到肩部 或 更长的头发。最好至少一天不洗头,因为新洗过的头发可能会产生滑动,发蜡或许有帮助。现在称这种发式为Milkmaid 或 Heidi,由于17世纪没有弹性的马尾辫固定器,所以将布带或丝带一同编入,作者尝试这么做,发现这种方式很舒适!

两条相等的带子,是头围的4至5倍;

从中间将头发左右分成两半,如图1所示将带子放在脖子后方或肩膀上,两边相等。然后将发带固定在嘴的另一侧,一边的头发分成三等份,如图2。首先将前部向后拉,开始用带子将辫子编入耳朵后方,如图3。

固定直至末端,如图4图5;

通过带子将头发缠起来,并打一个结用于固定末端,如图6。

重复。

将辫子顶在头上,交叉,如图10;

将它们在后部缠绕一圈,并将带子置于辫子的前方,如图11;

在头顶部扎结,注意不要过于紧绷,应该处于舒适。

松散的头发可以选择塞在带子下方,在需要的时候用发夹固定,如图14;

三视图;


固定交叉带和头巾

交叉带沿前额的发际线,绑在头后方,如图1;

头巾在交叉带上,抽绳。将束带交叉在头巾下方,将其放在下面的辫子前面,在顶部将其交叉,使它们缠绕在围巾下方。固定,如图2,图3。

头发被完全遮盖,如图4;



Coif 1a


Coif 1b


Coif 1c


Coif 2a


Coif 2b


Coif 2c


Coif 3


Coif 4


参考文献

Fig. 1, Detail from ‘A Statute for Swearers and Drunkards’ 1624. http://thegoodwyfe.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/knitted-caps-or-hats.html , retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 2, Detail from ‘A Pretious Treasury’, 1649. http://the1642goodwyfe.wordpress.com/2012/11/16/a-pretious-treasury/, retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 3, Detail from ‘The Witch of the Woodlands, or The Cobbler’s New Translation’, 1655. http://the1642goodwyfe.wordpress.com/?s=Translation,  retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 4, Detail from ‘Stripping, Whipping and Pumping Pamphlet’. 1638. http://the1642goodwyfe.wordpress.com/?s=stripping, retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 5, Detail from ‘The Discovery of Witches’, 1647. http://the1642goodwyfe.wordpress.com/?s=Matthew+Hopkins, retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 6, Detail from  The kitchen-maid’ Wenceslas Hollar 1640. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wenceslas_Hollar_-_The_kitchen-maid_%28State_1%29.jpg, retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 7, Coif found under floorboards during the demolition of the Plough Inn in Sittingbourne. http://www.hrgs.co.uk/concealed-artefacts/70-the-plough-finds, retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 8, Linen coif with needlepoint lace insertions and edges, 1640-1660. Platt Hall, Manchester. © Manchester City Galleries. http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/display.php?EMUSESSID=70a1d15972b6f1d280a79741cbfedd50&irn=14952, retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. 9. Linen coif, cut in one section, folded over crown and joined at back by openwork seam of needlepoint lace. 1625-1650 . Platt Hall, Manchester. © Manchester City Galleries.  http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/display.php?EMUSESSID=70a1d15972b6f1d280a79741cbfedd50&irn=14567, retrieved 13-04-2013.

Braiding Hair, 16th and 17th Century Style:
Fig. A, Detail from ‘Hilleke de Roy and Four of Her Orphans’ 1586. http://www.pubhist.com/work/10226/anonymous/hilleke-de-roy-and-four-of-her-orphans , retrieved 11-04-2013.
Fig. B, Detail from ‘Joachim Beuckelaer – Market Scene‘ 1563. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Joachim_Beuckelaer_-_Market_Scene_-_WGA02118.jpg, retrieved 11-04-2013.

Faking it:

Fig. 1, Kempten false braid: http://www.bettinas-pages.de/pictures/clothing/wulsthaube/false_braid_gr.jpg ,
retrieved 11-04-2013.

Head-wraps:

The Tudor Tailor, Jane Malcolm-Davies & Ninya Mikhaila, Batsford Ltd (2006) ISBN-10: 0713489855

Further Reading:

Patterns of Fashion 4, Janet Arnold, Macmillan, (2008) ISBN-10: 0333570820

The Tudor Tailor, Jane Malcolm-Davies & Ninya Mikhaila, Batsford Ltd (2006) ISBN-10: 0713489855

Pinterest Board of British Coifs, Low to High Status: http://www.pinterest.com/suesam2033/british-coifs/

The 1640s Picturebook, good source for illustrations of mid-17th Century wear: http://the1642goodwyfe.wordpress.com/

N.B. The Marquess of Winchester’s Regiment is not responsible for the content of external websites

Photographs, Braiding Hair, 16th and 17th Century Style. Instructions for braiding hair & Fixing a cross-cloth and coif. 
© S. I. Sampson and E.E. Sampson. 2017.

Living History Guide: Coifs and Hair  ©  Sue Sampson 2018


译文:arvin wei

以上内容,仅供参考。已对原文做出删减,若有不明的地方,请浏览原文或相关所示文献;

英文原版:http://www.marquisofwinchesters.co.uk/2017/01/23/living-history-guide-coifs-and-hair/